Mantini's savors chef's Southern influences

Chilled by an unexpected downpour, the dash into Mantini's Wood Fired offered more than dry shelter.

We shook ourselves off and basked in the cozy warmth from the flaming fireplace at the entrance.

There, above the brickwork, stand gleaming trophies, testament to chef and owner Matthew Mantini's excellence on the grill.

Mantini, a Pittsburgh native, competed successfully in grilling cook-offs below the Mason-Dixon line, representing Marriott food services. It was a hobby of sorts among his other duties as a corporate chef, but the result of that experience is something all of Pittsburgh can savor.

Mantini, whose career in the kitchen started at age 14, has a beautiful space in which to create. He first opened his namesake restaurant three years ago in a less-traveled part of Carson Street.

Here in his new location, which opened in April, everything is coming together. Foot traffic from neighbors, City Theatre patrons and those in need of a happy hour fix or a better-than-average burger for lunch find their way through the door.

The space -- formerly Old Europe -- was opened up and completely made over. The large dining room and bar area offers a down-to-earth sophistication with exposed bricks, polished wood floors and white tablecloths under subtle lighting.

Earthy root blues plays in the background, setting the tone for the decidedly down-home Southern take on the menu.

A rectangular bar in front offers a street view through the storefront window. You can choose to dine at a snug and comfy banquette or linen-covered table. But the best seats are those lined up at the counter and the open kitchen.

Here, before your eyes, you can follow dinner prep, sauce swabbing and dessert creation. The theater presents meat cut by hand and weighed to ensure proper serving sizes.

You can even pick up a few tips to take home if Chef Mantini has a few minutes between entrees. He's more than willing to chat with new faces, or hug an old pal.

There's another reason we approve the open kitchen. Mantini keeps a perceptive eye on the dining room and is not above delivering a dish himself, or checking on a diner's satisfaction.

Soup is made fresh every day and makes a great starter on a chilly day. We tried the Tortilla Soup ($2.50 per cup, $4.50 per bowl) with a rich chicken broth that tasted like my mother's recipe from my childhood.

Appetizers range from Wild Mushroom or Barbequed Pork Quesadilla ($6.95 each) to Sauteed Lump Crabcake ($9.95) in remoulade sauce.

The satisfying Cherry Wood Smoked Chicken Lettuce Wrap ($8.95) appetizer combines slow-cooked chicken with vegetables and a spicy Asian sauce. It's difficult for some -- we won't name names -- to neatly roll the filling in the lettuce without making a mess. Oh well. I took the cowardly route and attacked with knife and fork.

From the five salads, we went with the simple Mixed Field Green Salad ($6.95) that included candied pecans and tangy goat cheese.

Mantini House Salad ($6.25) is another good choice. Field greens are combined with romaine and iceberg lettuce for additional crunch. Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinaigrette are the finishing touches.

Entrees include your choice of two side dishes: piping-hot creamed spinach; steamed broccoli; superb cheddar and bacon smashed potatoes; Southern-style green beans; basmati rice; home-style, molasses-based baked beans; and sauteed spinach.

Slow Smoked Barbeque Ribs ($23.95 for full rack; $15.95 for half) begin as pork spare ribs that are slow-smoked over cherry wood. The meat is tender, juicy and full of flavor. The apple barbecue sauce adds a sticky, finger-licking sweetness.

Another flavor of barbecue sauce coats the Grilled Pork T-Bone Chop ($24.95). These aren't your father's pork chops. This one is an 18-ounce monster of Gran Reserve. Slow-cooked -- do you see the pattern developing here? -- the chop is juicy and tender inside.

Wood Fired Fresh Fillet of Fish ($33.95) is a daily chef selection. We were lucky enough to take advantage of a fresh-cut halibut. This firm and meaty fish was excellent, grilled to a turn.

Southern sweets are a big influence in the lineup of desserts ($6 each). A few fave raves:

Just the name Bourbon Pecan Creme Brulee is enough to excite the appetite. As if silky custard, sweet pecans and a browned sugar crunch aren't enough, a swirl of chocolate sauce adds another dimension.

Fresh Baked Fruit Cobbler is served warm with a scoop of French vanilla ice cream.

The Southern Style Banana Pudding carried me to backwater Mississippi with layers of 'Nilla Wafers and creamy banana pudding. This home-style upgrade is built in a tall ice cream soda glass and presented with a long-handled spoon.

As the dreary days catch the momentum of the shivery season, we're happy knowing we have the summer-like escape that Southern barbecue and hospitality have to offer.

Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.